Thursday, July 30, 2009

Pengerang Off-Road Getaway - Aborted!

When we met up at 4.15am early this morning, none of us would have expected or predicted the outcome of this getaway. Less than three hours later, we hit jackpot. It is the first time I have ever encountered such a situation which effectively dealt a fatal blow to our expedition.

Lady Luck was certainly not on our side. I realised they were not behind me when I crossed the flyover at Carrefour Tebrau, hence I stopped and waited. Seeing no one for a long time, I tried connecting my phone to the GSM network but it was taking an awfully long time, so much so that I gave up and rode back. Gerald had been riding Pan's spare Ironhorse (actually his Dad's) and apparently (according to Daniel), the RD had gotten caught in the rear wheel. The impact tore the chain off, ripped the derailleur cable and housing, and broke the frame hanger. We were done for. Fortunately, Daniel managed to link the chain onto a single speed gearing.

We had a good chit-chat session at McDonalds' (Tebrau) before heading for home. What a let-down by Lady Luck but it was great riding with the team.


Arriving home & giving Mum a surprise.

Total distance: 45.2km
Money spent: RM4.20
Participants: LSH, Pan, Gerald, Daniel

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

The Bike Compass

What do you do with a used watch compass which strap is broken and compass head threatening to fall off its mount? Logical answer: Throw it away since you have got a new replacement for like $0.30.

Well, I was pondering over its fate when an idea struck me. You see, my map case had a nice Velcro strip which dropped off and I had kept that piece of Velcro. On long bike journeys which require navigation, I usually put the compass onto my watch which I will then strap onto the handlebars. I could very well do with a bike compass without the need of a watch.

I managed to pierce a needle through the rubber mount of the compass, which meant I could effectively sew it down to a strap, which was exactly what I did. The strap consisted one side of a Velcro strip - I sewed a shorter piece of the opposite side on its back. I glued back the broken strap and compass head - they seem to hold out fine. As the final touch, I rummaged through my bike supplies and found a rubber damper. Perfect. Now the compass can fit both smaller and larger handlebars. =)


The finished product - a snapshot (left) and mounted (right)

All I need now is a stress test. The expedition tomorrow will be the perfect opportunity. We shall see if it can withstand the rigours of mountain biking as well as the harsh weather conditions.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Second Warm-up

I was still not feeling 100% hence I decided do another short, warm-up ride in preparation of Thursday's expedition. I was definitely cycling better compared to Sunday's session.

Total distance: 21.8km
Money spent: $0
Participants: LSH

Monday, July 27, 2009

The Nagging Problem

I spent quite a few hours trying to rectify this nagging problem. I managed to straighten out the bent frame hanger as best as I could but somehow shifting is still not quite right. There is slight improvement but the chain still jumps a rear cog when I shift downwards to heavier gears. I believe the problem lies with a misaligned RD. Most people say the RD cage is bent but I doubt so. Truly, I have a feeling it is to do with the frame hanger. It is not only bent; the screw threads which hold the RD is damaged. I guess I will have to settle with this and just hope the situation will not worsen. Give me 3 years; 3 years to build a new ride.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

Road to Recovery

It felt weird to be in a more aggressive position (as compared to city bikes). After three weeks overseas, I discovered my untouched bike had settled in so much that the steering had jammed up. When I serviced it yesterday, the steerer tube and headset appeared normal and steering visibly improved when I reassembled the parts. Still, I could not wait to take the bike out today.

Familiarity set in as I clicked my SPDs into place. Yet, all did not seem too well. As I gained speed along the Sembawang Circuit and reached my usual cadence, I realised I had not fully recovered. I was sniffing as my heart rate increased and breathing became heavier. A hybrid was tagging close as I headed for Sembawang Park and I couldn't quite shake him off.

I increased my cadence again when I hit Simpang Kiri and maintained it for a couple of laps before easing off on the final approach. It was obvious the flu had taken a toll on my form but I was happy to cycle again.

I will be updating the entries on my backpacking trip as the days come and the thoughts flow in. So far, I am done with the first 6 days, so I still have 12 entries to write =)

Total distance: 14.3km
Money spent: $0
Participants: LSH

Friday, July 24, 2009

23 July 2009 (Day 18): KL - JB - Home!

I woke up feeling sick. The air-con was simply too cold. We had breakfast at my "favourite" Chinese coffeee shop before heading back to our rooms to pack our stuff.

We returned to the Central Market late morning for Lim Hwee to purchase his glass chess set. Lunch was at Chinatown and we hung around for awhile before heading to Hentian Puduraya. Today, I just felt like going home. Just as well, it was the last day of the trip.

Starmart Ekspres was a very slow bus. We had the privilege of great seats with massage functions though. It took forever to get to Johor and on the outskirts, we were informed that our bus was going to the Second Link. Passengers going to Larkin or Woodlands had to get off and get on an "identical" bus behind.

The driver was nice enough to drive us to the Malaysian customs although our tickets were for JB. In fact, we even got discounts on our tickets. I was glad to cross immigration. We were home! After 18 days and countless adventures, I was falling sick but elated to be home.

We had dinner at Woodlands before parting ways. I wondered if the four of us would have the opportunity to go overseas together again. It had been a great experience - something I would gladly and surely choose over school orientation.

This expedition has also enlightened me on the situation faced by our poorer neighbours. We as Singaporeans are indeed lucky to have more than our necessities. We live in comfort - begging for food to survive is probably the furthest thing on our mind. Getting a diploma or degree is not a problem financially to most of our younger generation, also thanks to generous education subsidies from our government. Sadly, most children in Cambodia or Vietnam do not have such a privilege and it's fortunate if they can even complete secondary school.

I read, with much sadness, news of four Vietnamese villagers including an entire family killed when they tried to remove gunpowder from an old bomb left over from the Vietnam War. The bomb had exploded. People may ask with incredulity why these poor people needed the gunpowder. The answer - to dig a well. I hope we try to understand the situation of these lesser privileged people, especially when we read the news. It is the least we can do. We should never take for granted the peace and stability in Singapore.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

22 July 2009 (Day 17): Gangsterism in KL

Surprisingly, Lim Hwee and I managed to catch sleep on the bus. Zi Kai and Jing Kai were kept awake by the loud roar of the bus engine and they barely caught any rest. I knew the bus was going incredibly fast. The driver was speeding. When the bus roared off the Lebuhraya Utara Selatan into KL, I could feel the pressure on the windows and I estimated we were going as fast as 160km/h. We passed cars in a blink of an eye and the rear brakes made an annoying screech every time the driver applied pressure.

We arrived in KL at around 4am. Breakfast was at the usual prata shop and closer to the earthly hour, we started combing Chinatown for accommodation. Wheeler's Lodge was full hence we had to go for slightly more expensive hotels. In the end, we stayed at Hotel Excel Inn (the same hotel Bro and I had stayed during our KL cycling expedition last year). Facilities were decent, there was even a water cooler, just that the water tended to turn milky.

We caught a few hours of rest before heading out for some shopping. We visited Central Market before heading back to the McDonald's at Chinatown for lunch. Along Jalan Tun HS Lee, we stumbled on a wholesale shop retailing snacks and we took the opportunity to buy some home. McDonald's was great (and very value for money too compared to Singapore prices), especially since we had been away from "civilisation" for some time.

In the afternoon, we checked out shopping malls in the Bukit Bintang area, visited the Giant hypermarket at Sungei Wang Plaza, then headed to Berjaya Times Square for dinner. That was when we encountered our second misadventure.

We talked to a waiter outside a restaurant and decided that the menu was not for us. We wanted to check out other places. As I stepped back to join the other, I bumped into this young man who looked rather aggressive but I just muttered an apology and left.

A couple of minutes later, somehow Lim Hwee got stopped by this Chinese man who wanted to know where we were from. He said he was checking something. Immediately, I said we were Johoreans. The young man whom I had bumped into earlier joined us and I noticed a couple of others lurking around. The young man appeared to be the leader. They started saying they wanted to make things clear. Apparently, they had beaten someone earlier in the day by mistake and they wanted to find the correct person. I was getting irritated especially when they wanted us to follow them to a restaurant to make things clear.

Anyway, we complied. In the restaurant, we occupied a wall seat and they pulled a chair over for the leader. Fortunately, we did not make the tactical mistake of occupying the wall seat two on each side. If we had done that, they could have boxed us in and we would be on losing ground. The questioning started and we basically called a bluff. Haha! I loved Zi Kai's performance in smoking them out. We led them to believe that we were from Skudai and grew up together in Skudai. We were also under-performers in school and were unemployed. =P

I couldn't help but feel very irritated and threatened when they made their threats. Someone had beaten their boss' son and stolen a briefcase full of counterfeit credit cards. They were not going to let the bugger off. At that moment, I was pondering whether to take the young leader out but since they had not touched us yet, it would be unwise for us to commit. I could feel people in the restaurant watching us. They were probably too afraid to do anything anyway.

It was great that the misunderstanding was cleared and we got away without getting into an altercation of any sort. We celebrated Jing Kai's birthday at Kenny Rogers' and surprised him with a chocolate fudge cake. I hope he had a very memorable birthday!

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

21 July 2009 (Day 16): Cameron Highlands - Ipoh - KL

Zi Kai finally agreed to join me for a morning run. From Brinchang, we ran to Tanah Rata (6km), tried finding the Robinson waterfall by climbing a steep road (but failed), explored Tanah Rata, then headed back to Brinchang. The run was a total 12km, the longest I have ever done on a mountain of altitude around 1500m.

While we encountered a lot of climbs and down slopes along the way, it felt good to run in cool (almost cold) weather. I really enjoyed the experience and was also quite impressed to see both foreigners and locals running/walking. A local had told us the day before that the highlanders frequented the road up Gunung Brinchang for their daily evening jogs.

At Tanah Rata, we found the bus station and realised there were a few bus companies providing transport to Ipoh and other destinations. The tickets were also priced at lower rates (at the bus station), compared to the grocery shop we had purchased them from in Brinchang (for the sake of convenience). We also realised the bus had dropped us off at a parking area a couple of hundred metres away and in the dark of the night, we had not realised we passed the bus station. We visited the tourist information centre but there was no one in so we started our run back.

We realised the prawn noodles shop was closed so we explored the market at Brinchang. I found my breakfast there - bread and kueh and very good prices. Zi Kai and I went back to collect our valuables and we ran into the other two who had awakened and got sick of waiting for us. We had breakfast at the market; I had ang gu kueh, pizza bread and the biggest packet of soya bean drink in my life! I was simply bloated. Zi Kai ate a lot, as usual, and he was going crazy over cherry tomatoes! He just couldn't stop eating.

We spent the rest of the morning slacking in our rooms, packing up, slacking at the lobby after check-out, looking for lunch (each of us eating at different places), before slacking at the bus stop while awaiting our bus. Finally, we saw a bus approach the Shell petrol kiosk across the road and we ran over. To our disappointment, it was not the Kinta Omnibus. We waited a good half hour before the bus came.

I believe it was the same bus as the one we took up. The distinctive smell of exhaust in the bus, the incredible vibration as it ran over potholes and the "high Gs" of each turn caused us headaches as we tried to sleep. Thankfully, the bus pulled up at Medan Gopeng and we got off.

Medan Gopeng was just like Puduraya. Almost every company had buses going to KL and they were all awaiting their slice of the cake. In the end, we chose Ekspres Kesatuan because their 1am timing fitted us. We wanted to save a night's accommodation.

We caught a city bus to Pusat Bandaraya, which was a mistake because the town was dead at night. We managed to find a Indian-Muslim restaurant where we had dinner, then caught a bus back to Medan Gopeng where it was much more lively with restaurants and hawker centres. McDonald's and KFC beckoned us from a distance. We were definitely attracted. An apple pie each granted us a few hours' stay at McDonald's =P and we fully utilised their toilets!

Close to 12.15am, we stumbled back to the express bus terminal where we had to wait for the bus to arrive.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

20 July 2009 (Day 15): Trekking Gunung Brinchang, 2031m

We started our trek up the 2031m Gunung Brinchang around 8.30am. The trail head was just beside the army quarters, alongside of the road leading away from town. The weather was cool and it really felt like Mount Biang (Kanachanaburi, Thailand).

It took a couple of hours for us to cover the 3km jungle trek to the top and while going was not that easy at certain sections, I thought it was simpler and in fact more comfortable than our Chiling Waterfall adventure. Perhaps it was the weather that made the difference! We were more wary of hornets than anything else as we had been warned it was the bee season. Thus we were not at all surprised that there was no one else on the trail that day.

Last night, after being home safely for more than a week, I came across an article on the jungle trails on Cameron Highlands! Apparently, the Gunung Brinchang trail is one of the toughest, has a history of hikers getting lost and is rarely used. Another piece of information intrigued me. Tigers and the tracks left behind by these predators have been spotted on Cameron Highlands in the past, and they are still being spotted today. That was a wonderful piece of information to learn about after our trek (the chance of encountering one is pretty low anyway).

The scenery from Gunung Brinchang was breathtaking. The summit was occupied by transmitter stations and satellites but there was a watchtower which visitors could access. That was the highest point on Cameron Highlands. We could see the Boh Tea plantation and surrounding towns. Incredibly beautiful.

We decided to take the road back to Brinchang which was 12km away. Lim Hwee wanted to scale Gunung Irau and we went into the trail to have a look but we soon realised that at the speed we were progressing, we were not going to make it back to Brinchang by nightfall. Fallen trees, thick mud and the steep ridge lines impeded our movement and our progress was agonizingly slow. In the end, we had to talk Lim Hwee out of it and we started route march back to town.

Alon the way, we passed a strawberry and animal farm where the guys enjoyed strawberry ice-cream. Lim Hwee found pleasure in making fun of the goats. The sight of the tea plantation and the incredible gradient on which the crops were growing amazed us. Plantation workers were busy harvesting tea leaves and we immediately comprehended the immense task they undertook - cutting tea leaves while standing on very steep slopes!

The distance back to town took hours to cover by foot and when we got down to the "foot", we were still 4km away from Brinchang. We visited the bees' farm, bought strawberries and tomatoes at a roadside "pasar"; and continued our way home. Of course, we stopped along several interesting shops on the way and I tasted kiwi ice-cream. =P

We were drained when we got back to our room. It was still a couple of hours from dinner, hence we just slacked about. Dinner was steamboat and it was enjoyable! The guys were having lots of fun, and we kept ordering vegetables because they were free-flow!

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

19 July 2009 (Day 14): Hat Yai - Ipoh - Cameron Highlands

Surprisingly, I caught sufficient rest on the bus to Hat Yai. We pulled into town in the morning and our first task was to secure tickets for our trip to Ipoh. From the posters we saw advertising rather interesting cabaret performances, we could easily deduce what Hat Yai was infamous for (if we had not known it had a reputation for sleaziness in the first place).

Anyway, we were not very interested to hang around any longer than necessary and quickly checked out the stores selling express bus tickets to Malaysia. Surprisingly, different stores quoted us different rates (quite extreme) and made baseless claims about their competitors. In the end, we decided to purchase the cheapest tickets (370baht for SE Super) we could find and proceeded to have breakfast. We realised we had not enough money to pay for breakfast - we were slightly short - but the aunties were kind enough to accept whatever we had. It was not the first time in the trip that we were "broke"!

Someone shouted at us and we realised our "bus" had arrived. We were ushered onto a tuk-tuk that would supposedly take us to our bus. We were a little wary but there was nothing much we could do at the moment. We took a spin around town. It seemed that Hat Yai was very much a quiet place, perhaps only coming to life at night.

We stopped at a parked Eltabina Ekspres coach in front of a tour agency. Surprise, surprise. We were rather glad that it was Eltabina and not SE Super. The person in-charge, a pleasant Chinese lady, checked our tickets and invited us to settle down and wait for the bus which was only due to leave 45min later. She was fluent in Mandarin, Bahasa Melayu and Thai. Impressive.

The bus didn't fail to impress too. After spending days on coaches with small and uncomfortable seats, Eltabina Ekspres seemed overly luxurious. While it was not the fastest on the road, the quiet hum of the engine and steadiness of its air suspension system made the ride a dream. The driver took the down slopes cautiously and other coaches always pulled ahead but our coach closed in on the steep mountain passes. I reckoned our bus had a lot of horsepower and could attain much higher speeds comparatively but the driver was not pushing it.

We reached Ipoh safe and sound. The driver dropped us at a Petronas petrol station on the outskirts but he was kind enough to give us directions to Medanki. We caught a city bus there but Zi Kai left some stuff at the bus stop and only realised when we were on the bus. We agreed to meet at the bus station.

The three of us arrived at Medanki. The Kinta Omnibus Cameron Highlands - Ipoh Ekspres ran four times a day from each location - 8am, 11am, 3pm and 6pm. Jing Kai and I attempted to check out accommodation in Ipoh but we realised we were a little far from the main centre of activity. When Zi Kai arrived, we decided to catch the 6pm bus to Cameron Highlands.

We had dinner first before boarding the bus. It was my first time up Cameron Highlands and the scenery from the mountain range was just stunning as the sun started to set. The bus stopped at several towns along the way and we were a little lost but I was glad we met Ying Xin who gave us pretty useful information. At least we now knew the bus would take us to Tanah Rata and Brinchang was the best bet for accommodation.

We went straight to Tanah Rata and it was great that the Unititi Information Counter assisted us in booking a cheap but very decent accommodation at Jasmine Hotel. The tours they offered were pretty interesting but we had to turn them down as they were a little expensive and we felt we could manage on our own. It was getting late and no one was keen on my proposal of walking 6km to Brinchang thus we took a taxi, or rather, mini-bus courtesy of Unititi straight to our doorstep.

The staff of Jasmine Hotel provided excellent service and were very friendly - we were glad to have found a nice place. We took a walk around town, bought some snacks, scouted the entrance of the trail up Gunung Brinchang and checked out the steamboat restaurants before retiring for the night.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

18 July 2009 (Day 13): Chatuchak Weekend Market, Bangkok

We visited the Chatuchak Weekend Market. I must say it's gigantic. Without a map, it will be impossible to track our progress through the market. Not that we covered every inch of the market in a planned, logical manner anyway. We were just walking in random directions, looking out for interesting items for sale.

I was rather intrigued by the stalls selling figures made out of steel wires. The life-sized Alien and Predator were impressive. If only we could get a set home! After spending hours and passing hundreds of stalls, I only bought a watch compass - a cheap replacement for my failing army-issue.

Mid-afternoon, we took a cab back to Khao San (the others had left their stuff with the hotel) before proceeding on to the Bangkok Bus Terminal. We had an early dinner at a roadside stall before boarding the 5.30pm bus for a 14hr journey to Hat Yai.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

17 July 2009 (Day 12): Slacking in Bangkok

We didn't do much on Day 12, except to visit a temple, an old shopping complex totally unsuited to our needs, a deserted departmental store and a street full of firearm shops.

I shall just write down the more notable stuff we encountered on this day.

The first were the firearm shops. From Glock to Sig Sauer, from pistols to automatic submachine guns, the shops had almost everything to suit your needs. Well, almost everything, except fully automatic rifles and heavier weapons. I spotted a few Sig Sauer military models including the P226 and P229; the shotguns were beautiful but the most impressive was definitely the MP-5SD. Gun accessories such as scopes, pistol grips, holsters and cleaning kits could be readily bought off the streets. There were so many makeshift vendors marketing such items and we really had a great range of tactical folders to consider should we had wanted to acquire one.

The other notable event was our discovery of an old, seemingly run-down department store. The food section on the first floor was well-stocked with very good deals but other than that, the other floors were very deserted and the situation got worse as we ascended. Stuff such as video tapes and video recorders were still on sale and many souvenirs on displayed dated back to 1991! The prices were not impressive either. The kiddy rides and fun corners were all abandoned, the toilets totally out-of-date and we were like the only shoppers around. Some of the staff were singing KTV at one corner and we nicknamed that spot the elderly corner. You can guess why!

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

16 July 2009 (Day 11): The Scam, Bangkok

We experienced our first misadventure of the trip in Bangkok. The scam was so neatly set up that we did not have our suspicions at first. It was only when we visited the jewellery shop did I have my first doubts. Anyway, I did not plan to buy any of their products but it was great that the others realised we had been set up before they fell into the trap. The incidents after the visit to the jewellery shop seemed somewhat like a slippery slope fallacy and totally gave the game away.

We paid off our tuk-tuk driver, who was definitely involved in the scam, and got away. The rest of the day was spent shopping, or rather, raiding Tesco Lotus for their super reasonable products. =P We checked out Hua Lamphong Railway Station but decided that the State of Thailand Railway was too expensive for us.

The next objective was to find A&W and we walked a few kilometres to the shopping district just for that. It was difficult to find one. The others have to thank me for I got them there! =P And I have to thank Lim Hwee for scaring the waitress away so much so that they forgot my orders and compensated me with a piece of chicken. =)

We got to the Bangkok Bus Terminal (Sai Mai) quite late, thanks to the delay at A&W. Most of the booths were already closed so we checked the remaining ones and to our horror, the bus tickets to Hat Yai were incredibly expensive. We did not have enough baht to pay for tickets and there were no money changers open. In the end, we found a ticketing counter which offered reasonable rates and had just enough for four tickets and a cab ride back. We returned to Khao San penniless.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

15 July 2009 (Day 10): Chonburi, Si Racha, Bangkok

We spent most of the day travelling. Reaching Chonburi at around noon, we asked for directions to the Si Racha Tiger Farm, which has the world's largest collection of tigers, and a student was kind enough to personally direct us onto a bus.

The bus conductors attempted to collect 60baht per person from us for the short 20km trip but we knew the fare was lower. In the end, we paid around 50b each and the conductors gladly obliged - I had this feeling we had been ripped off. Reaching Si Racha, we had to fight off over enthusiastic tuk-tuk drivers, claiming we were going to have lunch first.

Indeed, we had lunch and searched for accommodation. Unfortunately, the apartments / guesthouses were either too expensive or just too run-down to take into consideration. In the end, we started walking towards the Tiger Farm, planning to visit it before heading to Bangkok on that same day. We decided not to stay in Chonburi too. Our instincts told us it was similar to Si Racha. Hotels were probably few and expensive; there seemed nothing much to do either.

We trekked a few kilometres before reaching a sign which pointed us in the direction of the Tiger Farm. We were disappointed. It was 16km away. It was either a tuk-tuk or a 16km route march in full battle order. We negotiated with a group of tuk-tuk drivers. it was never going to be cheap to get there but when we learnt that the entrance fee was 300baht per person, we gave up.

The mall with KFC and McDonald's was probably the best thing in Si Racha. It was also perhaps the closest thing to "civilisation" we have seen in our journey so far. We spent some time chilling out at McDonald's before catching a bus to Bangkok.

It was easy to find the bus. They were in abundance. As expected, the conductors pressured us to get onboard but we refused to do so provided they agreed to our fare of 80baht per person. After some persistent negotiation, they agreed and we got on. When one of them attempted to charge us 100baht, we refused to pay and apparently the commotion was loud enough to attract some attention! We highlighted the fact that his colleague had agreed on the 80baht price and he had no choice but to accept the agreed fare.

We thought they were quite unhappy with us. When they signalled us to get off the bus awhile later, we thought it was a scam. We had not even reached Chonburi! Cautious, Zi Kai got off the bus to check while we remained on. It was a transfer. Quickly, we ran for the bus ahead which would take us to Bangkok. Fortunately, the bus conductor on that bus was more friendly.

We sat separately as the bus was quite full. There were quite a few soldiers returning to camp. The girl sitting beside me, Ant, was kind enough to give us directions to get to Hua Lamphong from Ekkemai (where the bus was heading to). Thanks to her, we didn't have to get lost! I learnt that she is from Chanthaburi and travels to university from her hometown. That takes her a good five hours daily (journey to and fro). I am impressed. We, as Singaporeans, are really lucky to live so close to our workplaces and also enjoy a world-class transport system.

Dinner at the Ekkemai Bus Station was horrible. We had an experience on the BTS to Asok but decided not to continue by MRT to Hua Lamphong. We thought it would be cheaper if we shared a taxi, and it indeed was. It was quite late so we took the cab to Chinatown. It was great being in such an atmosphere; the streets were lit with colourful lights and seafood seemed to be the must-try dinner! We had a problem securing a hotel though. They were either too expensive or sleazy.

We decided to try our luck at Khao San. We were delighted to find a busy street filled with so many budget accommodation. The nightlife was great. There were so many food stalls selling delicious snacks while a great many other booths peddled different goods from clothes to forged licences! Pubs lined the street and different music blared from each outlet. People were drinking, dancing, flirting and just making merry. It was probably the coolest hang-out in Bangkok for both locals and foreigners. I spotted a couple of bikers - Fox shocks, SPDs and all!

We had a late night that day but I just wanted to sleep after finding accommodation and taking a walk around.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

14 July 2009 (Day 9): Oasis Sea World, Chanthaburi

Question: What is the difference between a taxi and a bus when they are both pick-ups of a similar model.

Answer: The colour.

That was what distinguished the "cabs" from the intra-town "buses" in Chanthaburi. The "cabs" were blue and yellow while "buses" were painted white with a number on each side. We managed to find the right "bus" to Oasis Sea World but we found ourselves waiting almost an hour for it to move off! What a good excuse to be late for work.

The weather was bad. It rained heavily. And the marine park was nothing more than a dolphin show unless you were willing to pay more to play with the dolphins. It was expensive but nonetheless, an eye-opener. I did enjoy watching the smartest mammal on Earth (excluding mankind) perform tricks.

We had a problem getting back to Chanthaburi. There were no "buses" from the park. We followed the instructions from a kind Oasis staff and walked out to a roadside market where we were the centre of attraction. It was difficult communicating with the locals, funny at times, but we finally got the message across that we were looking for a "song tuol" back to Chanthaburi.

They insisted there were none, told us to wait and finally, one came along. The driver quoted a crazy price equivalent of booking an entire cab for a private tour and we negotiated, pushing the price down a little. Still, we were at the losing end. A couple of locals hopped on along the way and we found out they paid a much lower fare, not that we were surprised anyway. At our destination, we refused to pay the exaggerated amount but finally did fork out an amount slightly lower than agreed. As expected, the driver happily accepted.

Lunch was rice with chopped chilli =P and we had great fried chicken as a side dish. Zi Kai will remember this forever as he went down with a bad stomachache. We headed back to our room for a rest, then visited the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, but obviously Zi Kai was in some pain. He didn't even have appetite for dinner. I thought the chicken rice was quite nice, too bad he missed it.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

13 July 2009 (Day 8): Siem Reap - Poipet - Chanthaburi (Thailand)

We just couldn't help but make fun of Zi Kai. This was probably his saddest day of the entire trip =P

We spent most of the day on the bus. First, it was to the Poipet border where we alighted and had lunch. Crossing the border by foot into Thailand, we approached the baggage check section and one of the officers asked where we came from. When we replied Singapore, he smiled cheerfully and waved Lim Hwee and I through without checking. He was even kind enough to give us directions to the bus station which was a few kilometres away.

The Englishman whom we had met earlier on the bus to Siem Reap and again at Angkor Wat saw us passing through with ease and came over. We had another friendly chat before we bidded each other farewell. He and his wife were going to Bangkok where they would proceed on to China and India before ending their one year backpacking trip. That was the last time we ran into them. Wherever they may be now, I wish them all the best and that they enjoy themselves.

We took a tuk-tuk to the Bus Station where we caught a bus to Chanthaburi. It was then we realised transport in Thailand was quite expensive. On buses, you are likely to be scammed by the conductors if you are a foreigner, hence it's best to negotiate a reasonable price before boarding. The conductors may pressure you to board but stand firm. Out of Bangkok, stay away from the cabs and tuk-tuks. They are un-metered and excessively expensive unless you negotiate. As there were four of us, we took meter cabs in Bangkok as the cabs turned out to be cheaper than the BTS and MRT systems.

We reached Chanthaburi at dusk. One of the tuk-tuk drivers was excessively friendly and helpful but since it was late and the price he quoted seemed reasonable enough, we allowed him to show us two budget hotels, of which we chose the second one as it was bigger, more decent and air-conditioned.

We ran into Tim and Peter, an American and Englishman respectively, who were now residing in Thailand. We had dinner at Nam Phu market before we bid them farewell and left to explore the town.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

12 July 2009 (Day 7): Angkor Temples, Siem Reap

Too tired, we overslept. I was awakened by persistent knocks on our door and was quite shocked to see the time on my watch. True enough, it was Amanda. We apologised and quickly had breakfast in our room (bread with tuna =P) before moving out.

In the wee hours of the morning, the weather was cool. The streets were dark so I just kept a straight line and prayed my wheel would not roll into an obstacle. The bicycles we rented were in poor condition and I realised that my brakes were not working at all, a perfect complement to half-flat tyres and a jammed-stuck seat post. Still, I enjoyed the ride to the entrance of the temples where we had to purchase our tickets. A one day pass cost us a good USD20 but I marvelled at how they took our pictures and printed an instant photo pass for each of us =)

Our aim was to catch the sunrise at Phnom Bakheng and we rushed there. It was almost 5.40am when we reached the foot of the elephant trail. The others parked their bikes at the foot and climbed up while I attempted the trail by bike. Imagine a single-speed city bike on the trails up a hill! I assure you that it was not easy and there was no way up several tight switchbacks! I was relieved to get to the top not long after the others did (they took the shorter climbing path), but it was an enjoyable process. It was good to see the first temple of the day but unfortunately, we never got to see the sunrise. It was too cloudy that morning.

Going down Phnom Bakheng without brakes was a thrill. I was desperately trying to slow the bike before the switchbacks by stabbing my foot onto the ground but the uneven trail made it difficult to slow the bike. At one point, as I approached a tight switchback with increasing speed, I realised I was going to fly off the drop should I not be able to slow. And that was something I couldn't do. In the end, I crash-stopped the bike against the side of the hill.

After Phnom Bakheng, we visited Angkor Wat, the single largest and most famous of the Angkor Temples. Silhouetted against the skyline, it was a sight to behold. We walked the temple and it was rather interesting but I wasn't about to go crazy over it (I am no history fanatic). We proceeded to visit the temples in Angkor Thom, before having an outfield lunch (we should call it a picnic).

Our lunch, consisting bread with tuna and baked beans, was spartan. We noticed a group of local kids looking at us. They were hungry. We gave them some biscuits and what left of the beans and tuna and they gobbled the food up quickly. Indeed, we may pity them but it also serves as a good reminder to our fortunate selfs that food is precious and there are millions of hungry souls out there who may need that mouthful to survive the next couple of days.

The grand circuit came next and we covered Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som, East Mebon, Pre Rup, Sras Srang and Ta Prohm. Ta Prohm, of Tomb Raider fame, was a much nicer walk thanks to the boardwalk and felt a lot more touristy. Perhaps, it was the "effect" of Angelina Jolie's Tomb Raider shoot that brought fame to that particular temple and "initiated" a "revamp". By the time we completed Ta Prohm, it was already close to dusk and we took a jolly good long walk back to the temple's entrance (Zi Kai was not very happy and Lim Hwee just couldn't help shooting glances at me and giving that knowing look).

Anyway, we soon begun to our ride back to Siem Reap and it rained a little as we neared the town. The skies threatened to pour hence we decided to have dinner first. Fried rice accompanied with a fruit shake tasted great =)

And of course, our beds were a much welcomed reprieve.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

11 July 2009 (Day 6): Phnom Penh - Siem Reap

We left Phnom Penh for Siem Reap via the Phnom Penh - Sorya Transport Co. (No. 168) once again. After spending the whole morning on the bus, we finally reached the bus terminal on the outskirts of Siem Reap.

The distance to the city centre was about 4km. Lim Hwee wanted to trek in and I was inclined towards his proposal but the others didn't want to suffer that much in the sweltering sun, especially since Amanda was with us. In the end, they took a tuk-tuk in, while the two of us began our "route march" to our next r.v. location (outside the Royal Residence).

The boss of the King Angkor hotel had managed to convince Zi Kai, Jing Kai and Amanda to get onto his tuk-tuk, promising that they could view other hotels should they want to once they checked out his hotel. Obviously, they were pressured to immediately checking into King Angkor, but they made full use of his initial offer to view the other hotels around the area. Apparently, the boss was quite unhappy and when they decided to take up residence at King Angkor later, they were given lousier rooms than those initially offered. Anyway, in my opinion, it was still decent accommodation at a good price.

The ladies at the counter were also very friendly and we managed to book our bus to Poipet there as well as rent our bicycles (for our convenience instead of renting at another cheaper but further location). We spent the rest of the evening shopping at the Center Market (Phsar Kandal) and had a fabulous dinner at a row of road-side hawkers in the vicinity.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

10 July 2009 (Day 5): Killing Fields, S21, Phnom Penh

A visit to the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng (S21) Genocide Museum provided stark reminders of the atrocities committed by the scum of humanity against their own kind. I will never forget the descriptions of how children were killed by swinging them against tree trucks or how babies were slaughtered by throwing them into the air and spearing them with bayonets.

Millions died under Pol Pot's regime, yet he got away scot-free, dying of old age while in exile. I believe he will eventually pay for his crimes; God will never let him get away with it. It is sickening to hear how the Khmer Rouge cadres hung a radio on a tree at the Killing Fields to drown the cries of those being executed or how they sprayed chemicals into the death pits to mask the stench of decomposing bodies. It was organised murder; cruel, calculating and totally planned.

Our tuk-tuk driver was great. He acted as our guide and he knew his history. We learnt a lot on the trip. Lim Hwee was elated when we visited the range at the Special Forces Airborne 911 camp. The selection of weapons was quite tempting but the price was a put-off. If I remembered correctly, it was about USD25 for a magazine of 15 rounds (M16, AK47, M1 Carbine). The shotgun rounds cost USD15 for 5 pellets. In the end, the guys still went ahead to fire the AK47 and single pump-action shotgun.

We visited the Go-Kart circuit next. It was also quite expensive at USD12 for a ten minute session so Lim Hwee and I shared one kart. As I got into the kart, I realised there weren't any seat belts. The helmet did not even have chin straps! The kart was a blast, hitting top speeds of 80km/h. As I took the bends at high speed, I could feel the G-forces acting on me, threatening to throw me off the kart. I had to reduce my speed quite dramatically at several super tight corners. Anyway, the fun lasted 5 laps and I pulled in on the last lap to hand the kart over to Lim Hwee. =)

Getting back to Phnom Penh, Amanda went for her Cambodian dance performance and lessons while we visited the S21. We got back rather late for dinner but the Genocide Museum was really worth the visit.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

9 July 2009 (Day 4): Saigon - Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Taking the 1am bus back to HCM, we had Vietnamese sandwich to fill our stomach before washing up and surfing the net at the tour agency. Thereafter, we found ourselves on the 7hr bus to Phnom Penh on which Zi Kai got acquainted with Amanda, his new friend from China. =P

After surviving on snacks for lunch, I was glad to locate the highly recommended Capitol Guest House and we had a great dinner at an open roadside hawker. Cambodia food was not particularly cheap too but it was not as expensive as it was in Vietnam. We walked the city in the night, took in the sights and bought some essential supplies at a very expensive supermarket (prices were in USD).

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

8 July 2009 (Day 3): Mui Ne, Vietnam

At around 7.45pm, we caught a bus to Mui Ne. There was this Korean lady who was travelling alone and I always marvel at the independence and strong wills of backpackers and adventurers who do it solo.

I bought rambutans along the way and it was literally my lunch. When we reached Mui Ne, we had a rented jeep and the driver took us to the first stop - the Fairy Stream. It was beautiful but the kids who acted as guides were persistent and very demanding in their requests for tips. Their greed was insatiable although we gave them quite a bit of money. Next, we visited the floating village where we collected some shells. The most fun stop was the white sand dunes where we basically destroyed a rented slide with our antics. There, we happened to meet a group of Singaporeans too. The yellow sand dunes was the last stop and I discovered my phone was jammed with sand. I had quite a big problem knocking out the sand which caused scratches and jammed both the slider and the keypad.

The jeep dropped us off at the tour agency and we went off in search of dinner. Coincidentally, we ran into the same group of Singaporeans and we had a BBQ dinner, which was not too great in my opinion. The other group found it good though. Time flies when we are having fun and it was soon time to part ways.

We never expect the best part to be back at the tour agency where we found ourselves playing with the local kids. Our bus was scheduled to arrived at 1am (GMT + 7hrs) and we had so much time to kill. The kids (Hong - 16, 14, Na - 12, Long - 8, May - 4 and 2) hung around the tour agency and they started playing with Lim Hwee and before long, we were all running an amusement park. The lady manning the agency closed shop at around 10pm but we continued our fun late into the night until the kids had to sleep. They were so reluctant to leave! I guess we all felt sad that when morning came, we would be long gone. I am sure they will remember us for a long time.

Our bus came a little late along the opposite side of the road and we were alarmed when it did not stop for us. When it came back down the road, we waved and stood right in front of the bus. Goodbye, Mui Ne.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee

7 July 2009 (Day 2): Cu Chi Tunnels, Cho Lon, Vietnam

I had cheap vegetarian noodle soup (10000d/S$1) for breakfast. If there was meat, it would have been twice the price. I believe most locals prefer to eat at home instead of out as food in Vietnam is typically expensive for their standard of living.

En route to Cu Chi, we stopped by a handicraft centre where we witnessed handicapped individuals creating pieces of art and souvenirs. I was definitely impressed by their skills. We visited the Cu Chi Tunnels. Entry fees were certainly expensive and Lim Hwee was not very pleased with this but since we had come so far, it was worth the experience. I particularly like crawling through the tight tunnels but I can imagine how unpleasant it was during the war. I think Singaporeans are generally slightly larger than Vietnamese and we had a hard time squeezing through small parts. Caucasians cannot even fit the actual tunnel size dug during the war!

At the end of the tour, we had a tapioca tasting session and most of the foreigners didn't like it. For the four of us, it was definitely not worth our money to pay for the tapioca and we were hungry, so our bowl of tapioca and cups of tea were quickly finished!

The Cu Chi Tunnels tour ended mid-afternoon back in Saigon. Lim Hwee and I caught a local bus to Cho Lon, the Chinatown of Saigon, while Zi Kai and Jing Kai headed to Binh Thanh for some shopping. Food at Cho Lon was great, I had both dinner and desert there, but other than food and fruits, there was nothing much worth buying and we headed back.

Total expenses over 18 days: S$535
Participants: LSH, Zi Kai, Jing Kai, Lim Hwee