Monday, October 6, 2008

Pontian / Kukup (5 - 6 October 08)

Day 1 (5 October 08)

8.15a.m. - Dad and I left home for Woodlands Checkpoint.

9.15a.m. - Crossed over to Johor Bahru without much of a hitch and started our journey via Jalan Skudai. The Singapore Customs decided that bicycles should belong to the motorcycle lane w.e.f 22 Oct 08. Bad news for us cyclists. I am beginning to miss the convenience of the car lane =(


10.00a.m. - After travelling in the north-western direction for about 15km, we turned into the Lebuhraya Skudai - Pontian which would take us all the way to Pontian Kecil. Note: Pontian Kecil can be accessed via Ekspres Maju No.96 from Larkin Terminal. At Pontian Kecil, board Pontian Liner to Kukup/Benuit.
However, a taxi from the small town would be more convenient.


Dad and I at a rest stop along the way to Pontian.

12.45p.m. - We finally reached Pontian Kecil (63km from Johor Bahru) after passing several small "kampungs" along the way. A notable sight was the Shimano factory in Pekan Nanas, Pontian. It is a wonder that the Japanese bicycle giant manufactures high-end components for export only. The bicycle market in Malaysia is still very much undeveloped.


203km to Melaka or 31km to Pontian Kecil? (left) and the signboard pointing in the direction of the Shimano factory (right). Notice the woman looking at us in curiosity.

12.50p.m. - Taking a look at the bus terminal and finding nothing of interest that could stem our growing hunger, we quickly settled down at a coffee stall. With my limited, or rather, almost nil knowledge of the Malay language, "Nasi Ayam Goreng, dua" worked like a charm which summoned two plates of satisfactory tasting chicken rice. Dad had orange juice while I ordered carrot juice. It was ice cold at the top but warm at the bottom. They had put in milk and it turned out rather pleasant tasting. RM14 settled the bills and we left as the weather threatened to pour.


1.50p.m. - The sky poured soon after we started the journey to Kukup. What started off as fine rain turned into a storm. Already wet, I rode on until visibility became poor and I pulled over at a shelter. It was actually a store but was closed. Hence, there was sufficient space to lay the bike and chill out. There was another woman waiting rather aimlessly for the rain to become lighter. I was shocked when Dad did not turn up. Thinking that he had sought shelter, I just waited. In the end, he did appear. apparently, he had stopped to waterproof his valuables.

2.15p.m. - The rain subsided and we carried on the journey to Kukup. From Pontian Kecil, the distance we had to cover was only about 20km but it was arduous. The road was narrow, wet and not very smooth. Avoiding water puddles and the fast moving traffic certainly put extra strain on our already tired bodies.

3.10p.m. - The sight of seafood restaurants confirmed our arrival at the fishing village of Kukup, a total of 93km away from home. The road just ended at a passenger arrival/departure hall which was still under construction. I was a little confused. I had heard of and seen the photographs of numerous chalets yet all that lined the streets were restaurants!

3.20p.m. - Upon further exploration, we realised that the back alleys were actually the paths leading to the kelongs! We started our search for accommodation.

3.30p.m. - After several futile attempts at contacting the owners of the various chalets, we managed to talk to an elderly woman who offered a room to us for RM80 per night. I was in for another surprise when I viewed the room. There were beds for about 12 people; yet we had only 2! Later she elaborated that if we could come in a group of 10, we could get a package deal at RM90 per head. This included seafood lunches and dinner, breakfast and afternoon tea. If we needed transport from Singapore, it would cost us S$75 per head.

3.45p.m. - As there were only 2 of us, the elderly woman suggested a "hotel" which cost RM88 on a Saturday night. It was almost vacant as the weekend was coming to an end and people had left for home. We got a room for RM78. Note: We left the bicycles in the snooker room which was locked up at night.


The signboard advertising the "hotel" and "hotel" itself. Luxurious compared to the cheaper chalets.


Our room (left) and Dad standing on the roof-top (right). The view was magnificent.


Fishermen loading up their haul of the day on a truck (left) and a serene view (right).


The jetty which provides ferry services to Indonesian islands such as Batam (left) and my favourite chilli crabs for dinner (right).


Steamed fish (left) and Dad purchasing the ba-lu-ku (right).

5.30p.m. - After a shower, we checked out the place before deciding to have dinner. Basically in Kukup, there isn't any thing "exciting" to do. It is a place to chill out, have a chit-chat or indulge in a game of chess with your friends. Of course, mahjong is another option. We had chilli crabs, a steamed fish and xiao-bai-cai for dinner (RM78). It was simply sumptuous. In my whole life, I had not eaten so much fish at one go!

7.00p.m. - Nightfall. We had walk along the kelongs. It is remarkable how people spend their lives in this tiny village. They ride motorcycles and bicycles along the narrow paths on the kelong. The kids run and play, totally unafraid of falling into the mud beneath. Shops close and people retire early. Some indulge in a game of badminton while others find Mediacorp's Channel 8 more interesting.

7.30p.m. - We retired to our room to watch "The Island". It was a brilliant, action-packed movie.

Day 2 (6 October 08)

7.45a.m. - Rise and shine.

8.00a.m. - The children were already in school singing the national anthem when we headed for breakfast which consisted prata and teh tarik (RM5.60).

9.10a.m. - After check-out, we started on our long journey home. Road kills are commonplace in Malaysia. Birds, monitor lizards, dogs, cats (especially kittens), snakes and frogs often decapitated or flattened are a gruesome sight to behold and I try to avoid rolling over them a second time.

10.00a.m. - We did not stop at Pontian. 2kg worth of ba-lu-kus (RM4) filled our stomachs when we were hungry and out of energy. As we crossed into Johor Bahru, we met with a police roadblock. They were searching every vehicle. Nothing eventful; they waved us through.

Fancy chendol in the middle of nowhere?

12.00p.m. - Luck had it, we ran into a rainy patch as we turned into Jalan Senai. But by the time we hit Danga Bay, our clothes had dried again =)


Dad on the way home (left) and me pulling up close (right).

1.45p.m. - Deciding to have lunch at Woodlands, we hit the causeway when we reached Johor Bahru and found the traffic smooth. A Westerner on a road bike and carrying a big rucksack flashed past us through the customs. I wonder where he had come from...

2.00p.m. - Fishball noodles and ice kachang make a wonderful lunch. The weather threatened with thunder.

2.30p.m. - As we were on our way home, the weather let lose its fury with a thunderstorm in full force. I joked with Dad that the weather was waiting for us to make a move before it rained. True enough. We were soaked to the skin. Nothing new though... =)

3.15p.m. - Ploughing through the rising waters with rain beating against my face reminded me of the old days. Ignoring the curious looks from many (at two totally soaked riders continuing their journey with total disregard for the downpour and streaks of lightning), my mind traveled down memory's lane. I recalled the times I spent on Ubin with my family riding through the rain; my brother and I speeding through the puddles to make as big a splash as possible. And the day Dad and I got caught in a storm while searching for Grandma's final resting place. The wonderful memories brought a smile to my lips as the familiar buildings of Sembawang loomed ahead. Home sweet home.

Sembawang - Woodlands: 10km
Johor Bahru - Pontian Kecil: 63km
Pontian Kecil - Kukup: 20km
Total distance: 186km

Money spent: $48 / pax
Participants: LSH, Dad

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